DORDOGNE GUIDE

View Dordogne Holiday Properties

Long a favourite with British visitors, drawn by its tranquil beauty and famous gastronomy, the romantic countryside of the department of Dordogne has Ages when English kings ruled Aquitaine province for 300 years. Reminders of the Hundred Years War between England and France can be seen in the many bastide (fortified) towns such as Domme and ruined chateaux and castles fought over by Crusader king, Richard the Lionheart. Follow his ‘route’ making sure to include restored Beynac and Castelnaud, ranged opposite each other across the River Dordogne frontier which gives the department its name.

Confusingly, the French refer to this area between the Loire Valley and Pyrenees as Perigord - a corruption of its old Gaulish name. Each distinctive area is ‘colour coded’.

 

Dordogne’s capital, Perigueux, lies on the central limestone plateau of Perigord Blanc (white). A great base for exploration, the city has significant Roman remains. Perigord Pourpre (purple) in the south west takes its colour from the rich red wines produced around Bergerac along with mellow whites and roses. Follow a tradition begun hundreds of years ago and take some home.

 

The evergreen oak woods high above central Dordogne could explain dark Perigord Noir (black). Here the Vezere Valley, a UNESCO world heritage site, has enough caves to keep most ardent pre-historians happy. Find out more at the Musee National de Prehistoire at Les Eyzies-de-Tayac. A ‘must visit’ is Montignac which houses replicas of the famous Lascaux Caves. The original paintings date back over 17,000 years. Medieval Sarlat is a fine example of Dordogne’s ochre-coloured architecture. Sometimes used as a film set it’s the perfect backdrop for a huge Saturday market selling all the basics of Perigordian cuisine, from truffles and foie gras (goose liver pate) to walnuts and mushrooms.

 

The verdant river valleys bordering on Limousin - green even in dry summers - were first labelled Perigord Vert (green) by author Jules Verne. More sparsely populated than other areas, cycling is a pleasure and the rivers are great for fishing and canoeing - some have swimming beaches. The Regional Park of Perigord-Limousin is ideal for outdoor activites including walking and rock climbing. Admire Dordogne’s architecture from Pigeonniers (stone dovecotes) to fairytale turrets at Jumilhac-le-Grand and be sure to visit lovely Saint-Jean-de-Cole.

 

Perigueux

Founded by the Romans, Vesunna (Perigueux) has been the centre of the Dordogne region for over 2,000 years and makes an ideal touring base for the chateaux and lakes of the Perigord Blanc. Take in views of the old town and ruined amphitheatre from Tour Mataguerre and Cathedrale St-Front, said to have been the inspiration for the Sacre-Coeur in Paris. The tiny squares and narrow streets come alive on market days. Look for winter foie gras and truffle sales.

 

Rocamadour

Take a trip to popular Rocamadour in the neighbouring department of Lot and marvel at this tiny village clinging high on a cliff face above the Alzou River gorge. Once a traditional stopping place for pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela and much visited since medieval times when the cathedral’s black Madonna was credited with miraculous powers. Today the village of historic houses is pedestrianised with lifts and staircases. Visit sanctuary churches and museums and enjoy stunning views on 3 levels - the finest being from the castle ramparts 500ft above.     

 

Sarlat-la-Caneda

The well preserved Gothic and Renaissance buildings and restored old quarter of this medieval town are fine examples of Dordogne’s ochre coloured architecture - so much so that Sarlat is often used as a film set. Busy in high season, the town has quality shops and and is a must for lovers of the culinary arts. The Saturday market in Place de la Liberte is regarded as the best in the region, selling all the basics of Perigordian cuisine, from truffles and foie gras (goose liver pate) to walnuts and mushrooms. View archaeological finds in L’Homo Sapiens museum and car enthusiasts should enjoy the motor museum. Modern gas lighting gives night-time streets here a special atmosphere.

 

Domme

Possibly the loveliest bastide walled town set high above the River Dordogne. Admire views of fields and farmhouses, woods and other hill villages along the river. Shop for local honey and truffles and visit floodlit caves with fascinating rock formations, hidden beneath the 17^th century covered market place, where townspeople took refuge during the Hundred Years War.

 

Bergerac

Spanning both sides of the River Dordogne, Bergerac today is the main market centre for maize, vines and tobacco, grown on the surrounding plains. Stroll through the old town’s narrow streets with half-timbered houses and pretty squares or visit the Musee du Tabac for a history of tobacco and large pipe collection (open Feb-Dec Tues to Sat). Discover about barrel making and Bergerac’s history as a once flourishing wine port in the Musee Regional du Vin et de la Batellerie (open April-Oct, Tues-Fri and Sat am). There are plenty of restaurants to enjoy and Maison des Vins on Quai Salvette is the place to go for free tastings, local wines and information on nearby vineyards.

 

Beynac

This village on a rock high above the north bank of the Dordogne is dominated by its 13th century castle - a French stronghold in the Hundred Years War. Restored to much of its medieval splendour with drawbridge, portcullis and medieval kitchen. Views from the roof are fantastic though not for the fainthearted.

  

Castelnaud

Across the river from Beynac, the Chateau de Castelnaud was an English stronghold during much of the Hundred Years War. Its fascinating museum of artillery and siege warfare includes cannons and model of an ancient catapult.

 

Jumilhac-le-Grand

This pretty village on the Richard the Lionheart Route, is dominated by the Chateau de Jumilhac where the English king reputedly stayed. Worth a visit, the Chateau was originally a 12^th century fortress. Enlarged during subsequent centuries, the 1600s renovation added its unique turreted roof of black tiles, earning Jumilhac the name of “Black Pearl” of the green Perigord. Drink in the Chateau’s fairytale appearance whilst enjoying a coffee in the pretty village square. 

 

Saint-Jean-de-Cole

Regarded as one of the most beautiful villages in France, Saint-Jean-de-Cole is a picture perfect spot with its cloistered 11th century Byzantine church in the main square surrounded by half-timbered houses, covered marketplace, stone bridges over the river and Chateau de la Marthonie. Visit in early May for the annual flower festival. Musical events are held in the church in the summer months.   

 

Excideuil

Originally the site of a tenth century monastery, this peaceful town in the Loue Valley - part of the Perigord-Limousin Regional Park - has one of the busiest markets in the region each Thursday as well as sixteenth century houses and Gothic church. Its castle, set high above, is famous for having successfully repelled Richard the Lionheart on several occasions.

 

River Dordogne

This major river of southwest France rising on the slopes of the Puy de Sancy in the Massif Central flows 490km south and west to the Gironde Estuary near Bordeaux giving its name to the department of Dordogne along its route where it provides a variety of exciting leisure activities and beautiful scenery so popular with British visitors. Enjoy fishing, canoeing, kayaking along with sailing, swimming from river beaches such as those below Saint-Cyprien, and waterskiing. Or try boating in a traditional Dordogne ‘Gabare’. Following the Dordogne Valley along rambling trails or by car is a great way to see the countryside, stopping at fascinating towns and villages such as Beynac-et-Cazenac, Sarlat, and Bergerac along the way. 

 

River Dronne and Aubeterre-sur-Dronne

The beautiful and peaceful countryside around the River Dronne is best explored at a leisurely pace either by bicycle or canoe. The latter can be rented at Brantome, a village set on an island in the river, well known for its lovely riverside gardens flanked by willows and limes. Boat trips are also available from here Easter to mid-October. Glide downstream past sleepy villages such as Bourdeilles with its ancient chateau and the market town of Riberac. 30km beyond Riberac, in nearby Charente, lies the enchanting little village of Aubeterre-sur-Dronne. Traditional tiered white stone houses with red tiled roofs and floral window boxes line the steeply winding cobbled streets. Be sure to seek out Aubeterre’s amazing church carved into limestone cliffs with secret passage to the chateau above. Said to be the largest underground church in France, the nave is as high as Notre Dame in Paris.   

 

Much of Dordogne cuisine is meat based with goose and duck appearing in many gourmet dishes and goose fat used for cooking. Fillet of duck-breast ‘magret de canard’ is a popular choice in restaurants whilst the famous ‘demoiselle’ is a whole goose or duck grilled over a wood fire.

 

Perigord’s 2 luxury specialities are foie gras and truffles. Foie gras - goose or duck liver pate - though delicious, is not everyone’s choice involving force feeding with quantities of maize. However producers are careful not to distress their birds as this spoils the liver. Dordogne’s famous sweet white Monbazillac wine is considered an ideal accompaniment. It also goes well with fine desserts. With their exquisite aroma, truffles are also perfect with foie gras (confits d’oie truffes) and can often be found in sauces and omelettes - even with strawberries. Find out more about the fascinating process of hunting these rare edible underground fungi with trained dogs and pigs at the truffle museum in Sorges which also has nature trails.

 

Stuffed ceps - wild mushrooms - make a tasty vegetarian option and there are many excellent dishes using local carp and trout. Mouth-watering fruit tarts such as cherry or ‘pastis’ made with apple and armagnac make great desserts and don’t forget Chabichou or Rocamadour goat’s cheeses. Perigord walnuts have a great reputation. Try them in cordials known as Brou, Ratafia or Eau-de-Noix and take a bottle of wonderful nut oil home to drizzle on your salad - an inexpensive way to remind you of happy days in the Dordogne

 

Chateau de Hautefort

One of the most prestigious chateaux in Southwest France, this massive historical monument high above the village was once owned by troubadour Bertrand de Born. Acquired by the Hautefort family in the 17^th century the Chateau was remodelled for Louis XIII’s secret lover Marie de Hautefort. More stylish than most stone fortresses in the Dordogne, with elegant Renaissance courtyard and formal terraced gardens offering wonderful views of the surrounding countryside; the Chateau is open daily Apr-Sept and afternoons Feb- Mar, Sun pm only Nov and closed Dec. There is also a dolls house museum in the village.    

 

Pre-historic Sites

Caves in the huge limestone cliffs of the Vezere Valley between Les Eyzies and Montignac-sur-Vezere hold so many fantastic pre-historic remains the Valley has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. With enough to keep even the most ardent pre-historians happy for days, visitors would do best to select just a few special sites to enjoy.  Les Eyzies provides a great base for visits and the tourist office should have details of site  opening times. Start with The Musee National de la Prehistoire in Les Eyzies, built into the cliff face which details the palaeolithic era showing the first traces of primitive man between 2 and 3 million years ago.

 

Lascaux II near Montignac housing faithful replicas of the world famous Lascaux caves is a definite must for any itinerary. The story goes that in 1940 four boys looking for their dog fell into the cavern which became world famous as a gallery of unmatched pre-historic animal paintings going back 17,000 years. Known as the pre-historic ‘Sistine Chapel’, Lascaux is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. But the 150 fantastic black, red and ochre paintings can no longer be visited, to protect them. Today faithful replicas, along with 1,500 reproduction engravings, made with identical tools and pigments, are displayed in magical Lascaux II just 2km south of Montignac.

 

Grotte de Font-de-Gaume discovered in 1901 is a tunnel-like cave first used by Stone Age man in the last Ice Age. See colourful pictures of bison along with primitive artist’s materials but do book well in advance in high season as only 180 people per day are allowed in the cave. Abri du Cap Blanc is a rock shelter containing a rare pre-historic sculpted frieze of horses and bison dating from around 14,000 year ago and Grotte du Grand Roc, an underground wonderland of stunning rock formations, has its entrance  high up in the limestone cliffs.

 

Gouffre de Padirac

The great natural wonder of this giant limestone crater, 20km east of Rocamadour with its stalactites, waterfalls and underground lakes is deservedly a popular tourist attraction. 100m wide and 246m deep its caverns reach 15km underground. Tours are partly on foot with flat bottomed boats ferrying you down an underground river to illuminated caves including the Salle du Grande Dome - one of the highest in the world at 90m.

 

Les Jardins d’Eyrignac

Now designated a national monument, these gardens of the Manoir of Eyrignac form living green sculptures in box, cypress, hornbeam and yew. The formal alleys and parterres are clipped in a combination of French and Italian styles making a botantical delight yet with hardly a flower in sight. Guided tours daily throughout the year.

 

Bergerac Wine-Tasting

The full-bodied reds, the finest being Pecharmant, and mellow white wines from vineyards around Bergerac have been shipped from Bordeaux via Bergerac since the Middle Ages. Maison des Vins on Quai Salvette sells local wine, offers free tastings and has information on nearby vineyards. Open daily Tues-Sun throughout the year and daily July and Aug. Follow the Route du Vin around Bergerac which takes in 13 appellations and over 100 growers who offer tastings.The finest sweet white wines come from around Monbazillace. The Chateau of Monbazillac has stunning views, offers free tasting with a tour of the Chateau and there is also a restaurant. Open every day (except Mon Nov-March) and closed mid Jan to mid Feb.

 

Les 3 Jours du Sud-Ouest, 22 – 24 March 2008

Orienteering and running events across 3 days suitable for all age ranges and levels. Starting at La Salle Polyvalente, Le Buisson de Cadouin, follow marked routes through the forest. Sign up by 1 March.

 

21^st Vineyard Walk, 4 May 2008

Organised by Les Enfants de la France, 15 or 25km vineyard discovery walk in Sigoulès. For more information, tel (00 33) 5 53 57 74 28 or (00 33) 6 03 27 33 00.

 

7^th Festival Expoesie, Perigueux, June-July 2008

Multi-disciplinary festival focussing on poetry with readings, workshops and interviews. Attended by more than 50 poets and other artists.

 

Music and Words Festival, Riberac, 20-23 July 2008

Every July, musicians and dancers entertain visitors to Riberac with jazz, pop concerts plus outdoor cinema.

 

26^th International Festival of Mime ‘Mimos’, Perigueux, 28 July-3 August

One of the most important mime festivals in the world with free street shows, theatre productions and workshops. Every year, around 30 mime companies present their acts to the public and before a jury in the hope of winning the prestigious first prize.

 

Children in particular enjoy this unique festival, which brings together a diverse range or artists with the public who will discover novel entertainment in the narrow streets of Perigueux’s old town.

 

Please check precise details and dates with event organisers before making your holiday and travel arrangements.

 

Copyright: Holiday France Direct 2008