PYRENEES-ATLANTIQUES GUIDE

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The name of France’s most south westerly department – Pyrenees-Atlantiques - says much about its geography but gives no hint of the colourfully different culture, cuisine, and even sport, which go to make Pyrenees-Atlantiques such a fascinating place for a holiday.

 

Originally part of the independent Basque kingdom of Navarre which was split and ruled by both France and Spain in the sixteenth century, the French Basque provinces were later merged with divisions of existing French provinces including parts of Gascony. The Basque influence and identity remains strong, and their language (Euskara) - far older than, and unrelated to, any other European language - is still widely spoken. Signs are often written in French and Basque.

 

Look for Basque architecture with its distinctive red and green painted woodwork in towns like Bayonne which also has excellent Basque and art museums. Picturesque Saint-Jean-de-Luz - France’s premier tuna fishing port - mixes medieval buildings with Basque and Moorish influences. Restaurants in this popular resort, with its fine sandy bay, serve wonderful seafood. Visit on Sunday in summer and you could hear a Basque choir. The Basques’ love of singing is matched only by their enthusiasm for rugby and a version of highland games known as ‘La Force Basque’. Competitions take place all summer and if you’re in Hendaye in August 2008, be sure to go along.

 

Another ‘must see’ is the national sport of pelota, a sometimes dangerous version of squash using hands or wicker slings instead of racquets. Find great opportunities for surfing and sunbathing on the Cote Basque. Biarritz, once nicknamed ‘the Monte-Carlo of the Atlantic’, is now the spot for stylish surfers.

 

Spain is just 30km away from Biarritz. Take the coast road along dramatically high cliffs close to the border, detouring to the summit of La Rhune (900m) for fantastic coastal views. Enjoy magnificent views of the Pyrenees from genteel Pau, popular with nineteenth century English holidaymakers and a winter sports centre. Less developed than the Alps, the beautiful green foothills and mountains of the western Pyrenees offer many opportunities for outdoor pursuits. See protected wildlife in the Pyrenees National Park. Visitors to Pyrenees-Atlantiques hiking the famous GR10 trail from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean can admire breathtaking mountain scenery similar to the unspoilt vistas discovered by pilgrims who climbed the col du Somport en route to Santiago de Compostela.

 

Biarritz

A fishing village made fashionable by Napoleon III, Queen Victoria and other European royalty in the nineteenth century, Biarritz is now a trendsetting spot for young and stylish surfers, about half an hour from the Spanish border. Enjoy great beaches - fashionable sunbathing on the Grande Plage and pounding Atlantic breakers on Plage de la Cote des Basques. Visit designer shops, fine restaurants and lively cafes. Take a cliff top promenade. Admire the art deco Casino and Museum of Chocolate. Find relaxing thalassotherapy at Les Thermes Marins. 

 

Bayonne and its Botanical Gardens

Situated 5km from the coast, where the Rivers Adour and Nive converge, Bayonne is the capital of France’s Basque country. Despite 300 years of English rule from 1150 – 1452, Bayonne’s heritage is evident everywhere from the brightly painted red and green half-timbered houses to the Musee Basque in Petit Bayonne. The town, which built its prosperity on shipbuilding and arms manufacture (Bayonne gave its name to the Bayonet) during various wars and struggles up to the nineteenth century, is now the favourite place for tourists to buy espadrilles, the famous Basque berets, and Bayonne chocolate from the rue Pont-Neuf. Visit the Gothic Cathedrale Sainte-Marie and excellent Bonnat Museum full of wonderful paintings by Goya, El Greco and Ingres and a whole gallery of work by artist Leon Bonnat (born in Bayonne in 1833) whose private collection began the museum. Vauban’s seventeenth century town ramparts form part of Bayonne’s Botanical Gardens and at one point the plants seem to float above the town. Flowers are grouped by colour and perfume rather than family. Open mid-April - mid Oct, including weekends. Entrance free. An Easter fair, celebrating the winner of best Bayonne Ham, has been held in the market place since 1462 and the whole town erupts again for 5 days at the beginning of August, for Bayonne’s Fetes de Bayonne which includes parades, dance, fireworks and bullfights.

 

Pau

Once the medieval capital of ancient Bearn province, Pau grew from a simple crossing point on the mountain river Gave de Pau, used by shepherds and their flocks. The town has surprising links with England from the early nineteenth century when Wellington’s troops, garrisoned here during the Peninsular Wars with Napoleon, took home news of its beautiful surroundings and mild climate. English tourists began arriving in the 1800s and were responsible for the development of Pau’s hotels, parks and gardens, including the Boulevard des Pyrenees with its stunning views of the Pyrenees high peaks. Early tourists also brought their culture, including the very English sports of horse-racing, cricket - even fox hunting. France’s first golf course was established here in 1856 and the first French Rugby club in 1902. Today, Pau is an important location on the Tour de France and its annual motor racing Grand Prix in 2008 will take place on 30 & 31 May and 1 June. The magnificent castle, Chateau de Pau, in the centre of town was the birthplace of Henry IV of France in 1553 and has a wonderful display of Flanders and Goblin tapestries.

 

Cambo-les-Bains, Spa Town

Developed in the nineteenth century as a spa town for those suffering from tuberculosis, Cambo-les-Bains, in the Nive Valley, has a gentle micro climate making the treatment centres high above the river still popular today. The old town, close to the river, displays typical Basque whitewashed houses. Look for the outlandishly decorated Villa Arnaga, one-time home of Edmond Rostand - author of ‘Cyrano de Bergerac’.

 

Chateau de Laas, near Orthez

Largely known for its fine collection of furniture, artworks - incuding Aubusson tapestries and paintings by Breugel, Rubens and Fragonard - and musical events, Chateau de Laas is situated in 12 hectares of park with distant views of the Pyrenees and includes both formal and rose gardens. Botanical visits each Wed (must pre-book), plus the Musee du Mais, a museum devoted to maize-growing which was established in the Basque country in the seventeenth century. Open July - Aug. Tues 10 - 12 noon and 2 - 7pm. Adults: €5 Children: €3.5.

 

Itxassou and Church of St-Fructueux

This little village south of Cambo-les-Bains set amongst wooded hills is where legend has it, Charlemagne’s nephew Roland cut a passage through the rocks with his magical sword ‘Durandel’ during wars against the Basques in the eighth century. A great starting point for walking in the Basque countryside towards the Mondarrain and col des Veaux. Enjoy hundreds of cherry trees in blossom in late March or time your visit to include la Fete des Cerises (cherries) during the first weekend in June. The famous cerises d’Itxassou are made into jam traditionally eaten with local blue Brebis cheese. The seventeenth century church of St-Fructueux, 1km from the village, has tiered wooden galleries and a huge cemetery displaying many unusual keyhole-shaped gravestones.

 

Basque Coastline

30km from the Spanish border the coastline of the Pyrenees-Atlantiques changes dramatically from the long flat dune-fringed beaches of neighbouring Landes to high rocky cliffs with fantastic unspoilt coastal views. Biarritz in the north still has its surfing beaches but the panoramic views begin from the ‘Promenades’ in the heart of town above steep cliffs and the Rock of the Virgin, linked to the mainland by a precarious footbridge. Follow the winding coastal road south to lively St-Jean-de-Luz, France’s premier anchovy and tuna fishing port, set on the coast’s only bay where 3 jetties protect sandy beaches from Atlantic breakers. Travel on past the defensive fort of Socoa, to the massive beach at Hendaye - last town before the Spanish border - where the cliffs are at their most spectacular and the road closely follows the cliff edge. Visit Chateau d’Abbadie, built by Irish born nineteenth century explorer Antoine d’Abbadie on a headland at Hendaye. This amazing folly containing Irish, French, Basque, Arabian and Ethiopian elements, reflecting Abbadie’s travels. Guided tours throughout the year .Incidentally, the superb beach at Hendaye is very popular with the Spanish who believe it rivals that of San Sebastian.

 

Parc National des Pyrenees

Stretching 100km along the Spanish border from Pic de Laraille near Lescun and on east into the Midi Pyrenees, the Pyrenees National Park was created in 1967 to protect part of the spectacular mountain landscape of the high Pyrenees from the damaging effects of modern tourism. Hunting, dogs and vehicles are banned, leaving a wonderful wilderness to all manner of endangered species including griffon vultures, ermines, Isard (similar to chamois) and eagle owls. (The native Pyreneean brown bear, which some believe is now extinct, is the subject of a controversial re-introduction programme). Transport links from foothill towns are mainly north-south along valleys. Cross the park laterally on part of the GR10 long distance walking trail from the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean which includes the length of the park. Hikers in June and July will be treated to a magnificent array of wild flowers such as white aspodels, purple Pyreneean irises and giant yellow gentians. Look out too for rare butterflies including the Garvarnie Blue. Information centres - maisons du parc - at Etsaut and Laruns give details on a variety of walks, fauna and flora and warden controlled refuges inside the park. Remember to dress sensibly and check on weather conditions before setting out.  

 

Gorges de Kakouetta and Ehugarre

These 2 spectacular gorges can be discovered close to St Engrace - a group of shepherd’s hamlets - deep in the wild Basque mountains. Kakouetta, the most well known, comprises 2km of almost vertical walls rising to 350m, often only a few metres apart. The air can be chilly due to lack of light, and misty from many tiny waterfalls. Wrap up well and wear sensible shoes as the path can be slippery and even crosses a metal catwalk at times. Those daring to walk behind the 20m high waterfall at the gorge’s end will be rewarded with stunning stalactites and stalagmites in La Grotte (cave) du Lac and a welcome picnic area from which to admire the view. Gorges Ehugarre is far less well known, following a sheperds’ route to the pastures of Pic Lakhoura. Be prepared for a 5 hour round trip

 

Foret d’Iraty

A nature lover’s paradise in all seasons and one of the largest beech forests in Europe, the Iraty Forest begins as a steep climb up a winding road (D301) around the heads of gorges filled with beech tress and rocky outcrops offering fabulous views back to the Nive Valley. Drivers should watch out for hairpin bends and animals such as cows on the road! The Iraty Plateau has cross country skiing on the pic d’Hory (2107m) and pic des Escaliers (1472m) in winter. Follow the hiking and walking trails in spring and summer or go mountain biking. Autumn is the time to collect mushrooms and visit the col d’Orgambidesca to watch migrating birds fly south.

 

Although Gascogne cuisine is well represented in Pyrenees-Atlantiques - famously sixteenth century French king Henry IV’s recipe for the masses of ‘poulet en pot’ or stuffed chicken boiled with vegetables - it is Basque cuisine with its signature red chilli peppers which makes food in this region unique. Christopher Columbus’s navigator (a native of Bayonne) first introduced chilli peppers here. They were originally used as a medicine and then a preservative for meat.

 

Restaurants in the Petit Bayonne around the Nive quays would be a great place to sample’ piperade’ - a type of Basque omelette made with tomatoes and peppers and sometimes including Bayonne ham (one of the best air-dried hams in the world). Espelette chilli peppers are also used, together with tomatoes and onions in the sauce for ‘poulet basquaise’.

 

Try Ardour salmon or the delicacy of elvers. Atlantic fish are varied and plentiful. Make for the restaurants of Saint-Jean-de-Luz for tempting dishes of tuna, squid, salt cod and shellfish.

 

Wood-pigeons migrating over the Pyrennes are caught and served as a seasonal dish known as ‘salmi de palombe’. Ewe’s cheeses from the high pastures include 10 month old Fromage Brebis - a world cheese award winner.

 

For dessert, there’s delicious ‘gateau basque’, or candied cherries from Biarritz and stuffed walnuts. Sample the local Irouleguy wine and do visit the distillery on the north bank of the River Adour in Bayonne to taste colourful Izarra (old Basque word for star) liqueur.

 

Walking, GR65 Pilgrim Route from St-Jean-Pied-de-Port

Medieval pilgrims travelling from France to Santiago de Compostela joined the GR65 route at St-Jean-Pied-de-Port to travel south across the Pyrenees, via an old Roman road, to the Spanish monastery of Roncevaux in Navarra. The hike covers 27km and can be walked in 7 hours following the yellow trail marks for the Chemin de St-Jacques and newer red and white signs. The little village of Honto makes a welcome place to stop for a meal or overnight stay.

 

Walking, GR10 from Bidarray along the Ridges

The GR10 long distance hiking trail (866km in total) links the Atlantic Ocean with the Mediterranean through the Pyrenean Mountains travelling roughly parallel to the Spanish border. The way is marked with red and white signs and the route can be found in guide books of the French Hiking Federation and on regional maps. However, routes around towns and villages are liable to change so be sure to travel with up-to-date literature. Unlike the higher GR11 route which often crosses the border, the GR10 does not include actual mountain top climbing, although there is plenty of ascending and descending. The section from Bidarray along the ridges of Crete d’Iparla to St Etienne-de-Baigorry is a 7 hour walk, famous for its views and the chance to see vultures at close range. Dress sensibly and do check for settled weather conditions as the terrain can be dangerous in storms or fog.   

 

Le Petit Train de la Rhune

The conical 900m ‘mountain’ of La Rhune, spanning the Franco-Spanish border on the western edge of the Pyrenees, is a famous landmark of the Basque coast. Perhaps because of its unusual shape, it was held sacred in Basque mythology and is covered with ancient stone circles and dolmens. The summit is a popular destination for walkers whilst many more visitors enjoy taking the little cog-wheel train up from Ascain. The train, built in 1924, runs every day from mid March to mid November, beginning at 9am - depending on the weather. The 35 minute journey is worth it for the fantastic, uninterrupted views along the French and Spanish coasts and across the Pyrenees from the summit observatory.

 

White Water Rafting, Sauveterre-de-Bearn and Laas

White water rafting is popular on the Gave d’Oleron. Visit the watersports centre at A Boste in Saveterre-de-Bearn, to enjoy this extreme sport with the security of professionals. There is also a white water rafting centre at Laas.

 

Bayonne, Ferias, July to September 2008

There has been bullfighting in Bayonne since the thirteenth century. The season lasts from July to September and includes bullfights on foot and on horseback. The bullring was opened in 1893 and built in neo-mauresque style. It holds 10,000 people and is the largest in South West France.

 

Biarritz, Pelota Masters Championship, August 2008

The Basque game of pelota is rather like a more exciting version of squash with curved wicker scoops (chistera) used instead of rackets.

 

Hendaye, Strongman’s Show, August 2008

A Basque version of Scotland’s Highland games known as ‘La Force Basque’ these competitions take place in various parts of the Pyrenees-Atlantiques during the summer months. Hendaye is one of the major venues. Competition takes place at the Fronton Belcelia and includes tug-of-war and stone lifting.

 

Espelette, Chilli Peppers Festival, October 2008

10 towns in the commune of Espelette cultivate the red chilli peppers introduced here from South America in the sixteenth century and which have been granted AOC status since the year 2000. See them hanging out to dry across walls and balconies in September and enjoy Espelette’s ‘pepper day’ on the last Sunday in October which attracts 20,000 visitors. Plenty of peppers for sale - dried, pureed or pickled.

 

Salies-de-Bearn, Salt Festival, September 2008

Commemorating the town’s heritage where a saltwater spring produces water nearly 10 times as salty as the sea - a lucrative source of food preservation in the Middle Ages. Taste local produce and learn everything you wish to know about salt.

 

Please check precise details and dates with event organisers before making your holiday and travel arrangements.

 

Copyright: Holiday France Direct 2008