LOIRE VALLEY REGIONAL GUIDE

Often referred to as the ‘Garden of France,’ the Loire Valley is a colourful tapestry of vineyards, flowers and rolling green hills dotted with hundreds of castles and chateaux.

 

Marvel at the famous medieval cathedral of Chartres, or Chambord, the largest of the Loire Valley castles.

 

Historic cities such as Orleans, Bourges and Tours have much to tempt visitors, as does the regional cuisine that makes the most of the rich farm-fresh produce.

 

All summer long, numerous fairs, festivals and pageants bring the Loire Valley’s history vividly to life.

 

Chartres

The famous cathedral spires rise grandly from this beautiful thirteenth century town of pilgrimage set amongst wheat plains on the banks of the River Eure. Explore the city’s ancient steep lanes and stairways, museums, gardens and riverside. Be sure to visit the superb cathedral - a remarkable testament to medieval architecture and worth the guided tour - with amazing twelfth and thirteenth century stained glass and collection of ancient musical instruments. Watch the magical effect of sunlight through large rose windows and climb the tower for panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. Chartres also has a good selection of restaurants, and craft and cake shops to cater for more earthly needs.

 

Chateau Chambord

The largest and possibly the most sumptuous of the Loire chateaux, this Renaissance masterpiece has a staggering 440 rooms, 85 staircases (including the famous double spiral staircase, one side for use by the royal family, the other by their servants), and a different fireplace for every day of the year. Even the River Loire was diverted to fit in with the design. There is controversy over the designer. Francois I, who commissioned Chambord as a hunting lodge in 1519, was inspired by Italian architecture and Leonardo da Vinci, who was employed by him in 1516, is reputed to have drawn the original plans. Almost 2,000 craftsmen were eventually used in the construction, which took 25 years to complete. The inventor of ‘son et lumiere’ - Paul Robert-Houdin - was curator of Chambord in 1952 when the chateau was home to the first ever display.

 

Clos Luce, Leonardo da Vinci’s Home

Leonardo da Vinci’s last home, the fifteenth century manor house in Amboise where he was installed by Francois I as his painter, engineer and architect, is now a museum and makes for a fascinating visit. See models of his inventions including a flying machine. Stroll around Clos Luce’s delightful gardens, and walk the grounds where there are life-size, interactive models. And take in the pretty town of Amboise which has good food shops and a riverside weekend market alongside a surprising teddy bear-topped turtle fountain by Max Ernst.

 

Tours

This young at heart city with its large student population, is at its liveliest in Place Plumereau in the old quarter, with busy outdoor cafes, restaurants and picturesque half-timbered buildings. Find weekly markets and fairs - the huge open market on Thursdays sells fabulous flowers. In season, buy delicious local plums and melons. A great place for museums and galleries, visit Musee des Vins de Touraine giving the history of this region known for its wine-making, and Musee des Beaux-Arts in the ancient Palais des Archeveques, with works by Rembrandt and the Impressionists. Look for a huge cedar tree planted by Napoleon in the Palais gardens and don’t miss the magnificent cathedral. Famous historically for the battle of Tours in 732, the turning point for European Christians in their fight against Islamic conquests, today, Tours is famous for another battle - the Paris-Tours cycle race. Wherever you go in Tours you’ll have no problem understanding directions as its residents are celebrated for their standard pronunciation French.

 

Argenton-sur-Creuse

A fortress towering over the Creuse Valley in the Middle Ages, fought over by French and English, Argenton finally became French in 1589. Now a lively market town with cobbled streets, and picturesque medieval houses overhanging the river, the town has been compared to Venice. Visit the shirt museum - the town was a major producer of shirts in the nineteenth century - and chapel of La Bonne Dame which has superb views along the valley. You’ll find a swimming pool and plenty of cafes and restaurants. Guided tours can be booked at the Tourist Office. 

 

Montrichard

Medieval market town on the River Cher, with enough Medieval and Renaissance architecture to please any historian, including a ruined fortress and Romanesque church with a royal connection. Catholic pilgrims process to Montrichard’s sixteenth century Nanteuil Fountain, ‘the fountain of miracles’ each Whit Monday. Markets are on Mondays and Fridays and the River Cher has an artifical beach, great for swimming or launching hired kayaks and canoes.You can find wine-tasting in town or take a 10km trip to the ‘Fraise-Or’ Distillerie Girardot on the road to Chenonceaux. Specialising in liqueurs based on fruits and spices - even rose petals - the distillery is open 3-6pm weekdays from Easter to September. Hours can vary in winter and at weekends.

 

The Loire

At the heart of a lush and fertile landscape so loved by French kings and nobility, poets and writers, the magnificent River Loire, France’s longest river, and its tributaries weave their magic, watched over by ancient castles and chateaux built originally for defence and later for private pleasure.

 

No longer commercial, the river, which flows over 1,000km from the Cevennes to the Atlantic, was once a major transport route for timber, fruit and wine before the coming of the railways.

 

The Central Loire Valley (Touraine) is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site in recognition of its exceptional beauty, architecture and history. You’ll find no mountains and gorges, but gentle undulating vine-covered slopes, market gardens and limestone cliffs - topped by fantastic architecture.

 

Along the Loire’s path are created some of the finest white wines in the world. Wine lovers and historians should follow the Touraine-Loire Valley Vineyards route or take the Valley of the Kings Historical Trail.

 

Cycling and walking are easy on the flat terrain. Roads built on embankments to prevent flooding follow the Loire’s course or walk the GR3 Loire path. Enjoy fishing and boating in places, although canoeists and walkers should be aware of whirlpools and quicksands between some of the river islands.

 

The garden of France, the Loire Valley produces fresh fruit and tender vegetables used in profusion in the local cuisine. Rivers supply salmon and trout, with wild boar, venison, pheasant and mushrooms from the marshes and forests of the Solonge. Enjoy Loire Valley’s rich charcuterie, terrines, and berrichon pies and pastries.

 

The delicate flavour of ‘quenelles de brochet’ (poached pike mousse) may surprise some. Perhaps better known is ‘noisettes de porc aux pruneaux de Tours’ - pork medallions cooked with prunes. Cheeses are plentiful - try the distinctive pyramidal Valencay nutty goats cheese.

 

Fruit pies are popular for dessert, especially the legendary ‘tarte tatin’ - an upside down apple pie first produced by culinary accident, or ‘gateau pithiviers’ - almond cream in buttered puff pastry.

 

The Loire Valley produces many superb wines, including the red wines of Chinon and sparkling whites of Vouvray. Not forgetting the regional version of kir - kir berrichone - crème du cassis with red wine.

 

Wine-tasting

Wine is produced along most of the Loire Valley so local wines are not hard to find. Look out for ‘bernache’, found in bars in November, and made from the first juice of the grapes before pressing and fermented in their own yeasts. Wine-making has been recorded here since the fifth century and St Martin of Tours is said to have been responsible for planting the first vines in Touraine. Vouvray produces sparkling white wines with a high reputation and there are opportunities for sampling Cabernet-Franc reds from the area around Chinon. Follow the Touraine-Loire Valley Vineyards route. The ‘Comite Interprofessional des Vins de Touraine-Val de Loire’ can be contacted for trail brochures. 

 

If you lack the time to visit individual vineyards the ‘Caveau de Degustation - Vente des Vins de Touraine’ in Amboise is open daily for tastings between June and August, and ‘Daveau des Vignerons, in Amboise’ is also open daily from mid-March to mid-November. The ‘Caves des Producteurs’ in Vouvray’ is a group of 50 wine growers who offer tastings and tours of their troglodyte cellars.

 

Chateaux visiting

These pleasure palaces of the Loire Valley are justly famous and visitors will be spoilt for choice when planning a route. Picture perfect Azay-le-Rideau with its summer-time ‘son et lumiere’ spectacular is a must for your itinerary, also the stunning Chateau at Blois with its colourful history having been home to 2 French kings. The Renaissance masterpiece of Chambord is so large it has a different fireplace for every day of the year. Don’t miss Chateau d’Amboise where Leonardo da Vinci created masked balls and firework displays for Francois I, and fairytale Chenonceaux. Château Chaumont hosts an annual contemporary garden design festival from June to October. To get a bird’s eye view of these magnificent buildings, Air Touraine is offering flights from Jan - Nov 2008. The shortest covers the Loire chateaux, or fly further afield to Chateau de Mernars, Chambord, Villesavin, La Sistiere, Cheveny and Beauregard.

 

Troglodyte villages

The region’s limestone (tufa) which cuts easily and hardens in the air has been quarried for centuries to build chateaux and abbeys. Whole troglodyte cave villages carved out of the local ‘tufa’ were used by poor farmers in the Loire Valley until the last century. See these intriguing dwellings at Troo, a troglodyte artists’ colony on the (Little) Loir which can be visited daily from mid-July to mid-August.Take a fascinating trip around the troglodyte valley of Goupillieres or view the cliffside dwellings by boat on the Loire from Rochecorbon. Some cave dwellings near Chinon are still inhabited and look out for sixth century Chapelle Ste-Radegone - a troglodyte church. Find houses carved from hills around Bourre. Make a stop at the underground silkworm farm, and mushroom caves made from quarries dug deep for stone. En route, you are likely to find troglodyte restaurants and you can even stay in a troglodyte holiday home (reference VC001261).

 

Fishing

The River Loire is France’s longest river, and with a large number of tributaries flowing into it, there are almost limitless opportunities for fishing. Rivers for trout and salmon fishing are open from March to September; coarse fishing is available for most of the year. Pike (brochet) is particularly prized in the Loire Valley. In the department of Indre, fishing is a major pastime, and hundreds of lakes and ponds both public and private are filled with carp, zander (pike-perch) and pike. The Brenne Regional Park has over 2,000 lakes, home to wonderful wildfowl, fauna and flora. Fish farming was developed here in the twentieth century and the public can watch farmed lakes being emptied between October and March - contact the ‘Maison du Parc’ (Tourist Information Office) for details.

 

Son et lumiere is an essential part of the Loire Valley experience. In July and August, there are son et lumiere spectaculars at both Chenonceau and Azay le Rideau. Also available at the latter mid-May to June and September. A nighttime gourmet market visits Azay regularly during the summer too.

 

Chambord has a full programme of events throughout the year. These include riding and biking in Chambord Forest in the spring, numerous musical events and festivals, a local produce market and, in July and August, the grounds remain open in the evening for visitors to come and see the chateau’s façade illuminated.

 

Amboise puts on a Francois I show on regular dates throughout June, July and August, which can be pre-booked online.

 

And in Tranzault, the pumpkin is celebrated at the town’s annual pumpkin fair - 2^nd Sunday in October – where you can see displays of pumpkins, squashes and gourds in all shapes and sizes.

 

Loire Valley Regional Tourist Board

37, avenue Paris

45000 Orléans

 

Email: crtcentre@visaloire.com

 

Please check precise details and dates with event organisers before making your holiday and travel arrangements.

 

Copyright: Holiday France Direct 2008