COTES D’ARMOR HOLIDAY TRAVEL GUIDE

Cotes d’Armor or ‘land of the sea’ on Brittany’s north coast boasts a memorable coastline. The adventurous can explore by kayak, others may wish to travel the coastal path on foot or by bicycle. The coastline stretches from the huge granite boulders eroded into fantastical shapes along the Pink Granite Coast at Perros-Guirec, to the highest cliffs in Brittany at Plouha ending finally in the serene landscapes and fine sandy beaches of the Emerald Coast.

Along the way are characterful fishing ports and a bird-watchers paradise at ‘Sept Iles’. Pretty inland towns abound, a ‘must’ being the wonderful medieval river port of Dinan on the River Rance. Arrive by boat for best views of the castle.

Cotes d’Armor offers a magnificent array of seafood. It is the largest European producer of scallops. Sample those from Erquy in ‘coquilles St-Jacques’.

Medieval town of Dinan

Dinan is one of France’s most attractive walled towns. Situated on a hillside overlooking the River Rance, Dinan’s 3km encirclement of walls remains virtually intact and houses street after street of late medieval houses. Like St Malo 25km to the north, Dinan is best seen arriving by boat, with spectacular views of the castle and fortifications. Head up the steeply cobbled rue du Jerzual or rue du Petit Fort from the picturesque old port, after browsing the craft shops and perhaps lunching outside one of the delightful quayside restaurants. Time in Dinan may be best spent wandering from creperie to cafe, admiring the beautiful overhanging houses along the way. Unfortunately, only one small stretch of the ramparts is walkable, from the Jardin Anglais behind St Sauveur church to a point just short of Tour Sillon overlooking the river. The church of St Sauveur is worth a visit for its mix of Romanesque, Gothic and eighteenth century styles and the Tour de l’Horloge offers impressive views of the town and surrounding area. Those who find walking difficult could take the tourist train for an hour’s visit of the town.

For more information, contact the Tourism Office

Tel: (00 33) 2 96 87 69 76

Pleneuf-Val-Andre

Le Val-Andre features a huge beach with fine sand and an almost endless pedestrianised promenade stretching along the Victorian-style seafront. Rue Acharner which runs parallel to the sea is the place to make for if lively shopping and dining feature on your itinerary and a trip to the town’s waterfront casino is a great evening out.

Erquy

The small seaside resort and fishing port of Erquy on the Emerald Coast offers plenty for the visitor to enjoy. Choose from 10 sandy beaches and little coves around its sheltered, west-facing bay, ranging from Plage du Centre in the town with a children’s playground, promenade and volley ball, the superb 2km Plage de Carousal patrolled by lifeguards in July and August - amphibious wheelchairs available at the first aid post - to the wilder beaches of Lourtuais and Lanruen backed by pines and heathland near Cap d’Erquy. The 170 hectare protected reserve of the Cap has outstanding fauna and flora. Enjoy heathland walks and follow markers for the coastal path.

At low tide, it’s possible to walk across the whole bay provided you are well shod. A visit to the port is a must to witness the return of Erquy’s 60 scallop boats (fishing October to April). The large inshore fleet of over 73 vessels also handles spider crabs and lobsters as well as trawling for fish. Local restaurants serve Erquy’s famous fresh scallops and other fish dishes. Before you leave, visit the cannonball kiln. This rare specimen of Vauban’s coastal defence system heated cannon balls so that when they were fired they would set fire to enemy English vessels. 

Jugon-Les-Lacs

Jugon-les-Lacs is set on the shores of a 4km lake, formed in the thirteenth century by damming streams - including the Jugon - which crossed the town to make a defence for its castle built on a rocky outcrop between wooded hills. Nothing remains today of the castle which was strategically so important to the Dukes of Brittany. But water has always been important to Jugon’s inhabitants and mills once used for corn milling and tanning can be seen along nearby rivers. Now popular with holidaymakers in central Brittany, Lake Jugon offers, canoeing, windsurfing and a sailing school amongst its watersports activities. There’s an outdoor heated pool and plenty of fishing in the lake and nearby rivers. Follow the footpath around the lake or hire mountain bikes to explore further afield. Some of Jugon’s granite mansions date back to the sixteenth and seventeenth century and the attractive place du Martray has a busy market on Friday mornings and live music on summer evenings.

Rostrenen

The central position of Rostrenen, a traditional market town of stone and slate, makes it an ideal base for exploring the beautiful peaceful woods and countryside of inland Brittany, reminiscent of a rural England long vanished. Old Breton tales have given rise to a number of local festivals such as the ‘bod’ bush fair on the first Tuesday in December. Visit Rostrenen’s Tuesday market for traditional produce including organic bread and vegetables. South of the town, the towpath of the Nantes-Brest Canal is ideal for walking and cycling and at nearby Glomel there’s rock climbing and pony trekking. All three of Brittany’s coastlines are accessible from Rostrenan while for those seeking a beach close by, Lake Korong can offer a man-made one along with children’s play area, canoeing, windsurfing and pedaloes for hire.

St-Nicolas-du-Pelem

This little town set in the heart of central Brittany’s rolling countryside is an excellent base for walking, horse riding and cycling. The town has shops, restaurants, rural museum and an outdoor heated swimming pool. Lake Guerledan nearby in nearby Morbihan has plenty of watersports, fishing, swimming and sandy beaches.

Lannion

Lannion itself is set back from the sea along the estuary of the River Leguer. Its present prosperity comes as a centre for telecommunications, but the old town still has plenty to attract the visitor. Wander down to the river through narrow medieval streets and visit the popular market each Thursday in place du Centre and fish market in place du Miroir (each day from Tuesday to Saturday). Follow Lannion’s history trail, including the Templar church of Brelevenez which has terrific views from its terrace, past little squares, cafes and half-timbered houses. To the west, the enormous beach of the Bay of Lannion can be walked at low tide over vast stretches of sand between St-Michel-en-Greve and Locquirec.

Guingamp

This inland university town set on the River Trieux has its share of nightlife and bars to cater for its youthful inhabitants. Parts of the medieval walls of the old town are still standing. In the daytime, the place to sit and watch the world go by is the place du Centre which is traffic-free, overlooked by fine old eighteenth century houses and Renaissance-style ‘La Plomee’ fountain. Guingamp enjoys 2 festivals, a candlelit annual pardon procession with bonfires and traditional dancing on the first Saturday in July - Gouel ar Bugale Vreizh - and the Fete de la Saint Loup in August involving a week of Breton dance and music.

Paimpol

Once a working fishing port sending cod and whaling fleets to Iceland, Paimpol is now mainly a pleasure port although you can still see fishing vessels leaving its 2 harbours.

Busy in summer with visitors making for the beaches of Brehec and taking sailing lessons or scuba diving and kayaking, the town is a jumble of cobbled streets and granite houses and Paimpol’s Tuesday market is well known for its fish and oysters. Walk part of the GR34 long distance coastal path which passes this way offering magnificent coastal views. The ruins of the Abbaye de Beauport just outside the town, now colonised by wild flowers, trees and birds, have their own special magic. Check on www.abbaye-beauport.com for details of guided tours including summer evenings with atmospheric lighting.

Bréhat Island

Also known as the Island of Flowers, it is in fact, 2 islands almost equal in size which are connected by a bridge built by Vauban. The northern island is mainly gorse and heather and the southern island of a more Mediterranean landscape due to its warm micro-climate. On the southern island, there is a tidal mill and Chapel Saint-Michel. Artists such as Gauguin and Matisse have been attracted to its beauty. Cars are forbidden, so it’s an ideal venue for good cycling and walking. Access from the mainland is by ferry from Pointe de l’Arcouest.

The Pink Granite Coast and its Towns and Villages

Perros-Guirec is the highlight of Brittany’s Pink Granite Coast which stretches along the coast from Brehat past pretty sheltered bays like Plougrescant to Tregastel. Perros-Guirec itself is a haven of tree lined avenues, smart villas and beautiful beaches. But it is its location at one end of the long Sentier des Douaniers, customs officers walking route, which takes you along stunning cliff tops to the tiny resort of Ploumanac’h past the incredible water sculpted rocks for which the Pink Granite Coast is famous that makes it so popular. Seabirds glide overhead to the Sept-Iles bird sanctuary as you walk. Some huge rocks are balanced precariously on each other and eroded into strange shapes with names like ‘Napoleon’s hat’, ‘turtle’ and ‘witch’.

Further west are the small villages of Tregastel and Trebeurden. Tregastel is a typical resort with rocks and sandy beaches, harbour, restaurants and creperies. Its newly renovated aquarium is located in pink granite caves with displays of English Channel flora and fauna. Nearby is the dome of the Pleumier-Bodou Telecommunications Centre. Opened in 1962, it was the first receiving station to pick up signals from the American Telstar satellite. The site is now Cosmopolis telecommunications museum with small planetarium and son et lumiere shows.

The Pink Granite Coast is seen at its best in mid May when yellow gorse and lilac lavender contrast with the rose coloured boulders. Ploumanac’h’s pink granite lighthouse looks magical at sunset.

Les Sept Iles

Out in the open sea, the archipelago of the Sept-Iles (Seven Islands) is France’s oldest and biggest bird sanctuary. Home to many bird species, including puffins, razorbills and guillemots, it is also visited by grey seals which you can see sunning themselves. The colony of gannets on Ile Rouzic is unique in France. Although the rest of the archipelago is strictly out of bounds to visitors, you can still spend a day on the Ile aux Moines (Monks Island) and picnic at the foot of the fort built by Vauban during the reign of Louis XV.

Reservations Centre tel: (00 33) 2 96 91 10 00 – Family reservations should be made the day before or the morning of afternoon trips. Open 1 July to 30 September.

Emerald Coast and Cap Frehel

The Emerald coast around Dinard takes its name from the colour of the sea contrasting so wonderfully with the purple heather and yellow gorse flowers in summer. Old fishing villages and popular seaside resports such as St Cast-le-Guildo and Sables-d’Or-les-Pins - a family resort with pony rides and bouncy castles on its sandy beaches - alternate with dramatic cliffs and promentories. Visit the lighthouse on the tip of Cap Frehel’s dramatic headland and eighteenth century fortification of Tour Vauban. The off-shore rocks are now a nature reserve and France’s most important nesting site for guillemots. Dramatic fourteenth century Fort La Latte on 70m high cliffs nearby is so striking it is often used as a film set, such as rooftop sword fight scene in The Vikings, starring Kirk Douglas and Tony Curtis.

Cote de Goelo, Binic and St-Quay-Portrieux

West from St Brieuc Bay along the Cote de Goelo, the scenery is wilder and many bays give way to restricted rocky inlets. The beach at the narrow little port of Binic increases greatly in size at low tide. In the mid nineteenth century, fishermen from Binic were amongst the first to go to Newfoundland. Today, it is a popular seaside resort and most fishing, including scallops, has relocated to nearby St Quay-Portrieux which has a new port and auction rooms. The fishing tradition in St Quay-Portrieux which began in the seventeenth century is still strong and its fleet increases to 100 boats in the scallop season. The port now has a modern marina, 2 yacht clubs, sailing school, diving and fishing clubs. Holidaymakers can enjoy many shops, creperies and restaurants along with fine sandy beaches. Interestingly, the coast road at nearby Plouha is the traditional divide between French-speaking and Breton-speaking Brittany, a divide linked to an influx of immigrants from Devon, England in the fifth century.

Nantes-Brest Canal

The Nantes-Brest Canal, weaves from Nantes south of Finistere to Brest at the mouth of the Loire. The Canal was built in the nineteenth century after an English blockade of Brest persuaded Napoleon that a link between his 2 largest Atlantic military ports, other than by sea, was necessary. Part of the canal passes through rural Cotes d’Armor and is navigable in some parts. Look for little towns and villages such as medieval Loudeac and Gouarec - a good place to access the canal by road as a starting point for great walks or peaceful cycle rides along its banks enjoying the wildlife from butterflies to kingfishers and herons. The watersports centre at Rostrenen can organise canoe hire and trips by appointment on the Canal.  

Visit the twelfth - eighteenth century Cistercian Abbaye de Bon Repos at Laniscat along the way which is undergoing restoration but has a son et lumiere display during the second weekend in August. The Guerledan dam interrupts the course of the Nantes-Brest Canal on the border with Morbihan forming one of Brittany’s largest lakes (400 hectares). The lake is a fantastic venue for every sort of watersport, bird-watching, walking, cycling and horse riding.

Blavet River

The River Blavet, rises around the Etang Blavet between Guingamp and Rostrenen. It is considered to be one of the best coarse fishing venues in France aided by easy river access and few boats. Enjoy walking and cycling through the unspoilt countryside around its course and discover where it links to become part of the Nantes-Brest Canal in southern Cotes d’Armor before the Guerledan dam, where there is the possibility of canoeing. Find out more from the Federation Francaise de Canoe-Kayak on (00 33) 2 48 89 39 89. Lake Guerledan offers boat trips and all manner of watersports including water skiing and sailing.   

Brittany’s signature delicate crepes (pancakes), savoury gallettes and bowls of cider are all plentifully on offer in the cafes and restaurants of Cotes d’Armor. But try Gavottes de Dinan for something more local - a small rolled pancake-like crisp biscuit in flavours from lemon to chocolate eaten with desserts or coffee. A cake specific to Cotes d’Armor is kouing (Breton for Cake) amann (Breton for butter) or Breton butter yeast cake - not for those on a diet! In Cotes d’Armor in particular, Brittany’s rich fishing grounds ensure gourmet seafood from the wonderful sweet flavour of ‘coquilles St-Jacques’ made with finest Erquy scallops (the department is France’s largest producer) to ‘cotriade’ (fish stew made with potatoes, onions, garlic and butter). Many recipes also use coco de Paimpol - a local type of haricot bean. 

Play a Round of Golf or Two

Cotes d’Armor offers superb golfing all year round at courses in beautiful settings. If you’re planning on a stay on the Pink Granite Coast, for example, then any golfers in your party may like to try Golf de Saint-Samson. This 18-hole/71 par course has a moorland and pine wood setting.

Alternatively, you may prefer to visit Golf des Ajoncs d’Or situated near Binic and St-Quay-Portrieux for a high quality 18-hole/72 par course.

Further along the coast, Golf Val Andre Blue Green is another 18-hole/72 par course – enjoy the stunning views as you play.

Or, finally, how about Golf des Sables d’Or near Cap Frehel which offers an 18-hole/70 par course in an outstanding setting.

Visit the Aquarium at Tregastel

Tregastel Marine Aquarium is located amidst giant pink granite boulders. Visitors pass through an impressive maze of natural granite blocks to visit the chapel, the Second World War arms depot, the pre-historic museum and the Marine Aquarium. There are 3 zones to the aquarium where visitors can observe lobsters, bass, conger eels, anemonies etc, and uncover the secrets of the tides.

For more information tel: (00 33) 2 96 23 48 58

Visit Planetarium de Bretagne, Cosmopolis, Pleumeur-Boudou

The planetarium projects 3D pictures of space onto a huge 600m² screen. Displays include; The Planet with 1000 Faces; a Voyage through the Solar System and The Southern Sky Mysteries.

More information on tel: (00 33) 2 96 15 80 32

Visit the Tidal Mill at Trégastel

The first mill here was built in 1375 on the small dam connecting the communes of Perros-Guirec and Trégastel, to be replaced in 1764. The mill functioned thanks to the flow and ebb of the tide. It was used primarily to grind grain but also to clean flax and crush salt. A working mill until 1932, it is now an exhibition centre.

Tel: (00 33) 2 96 23 47 48

Visit Chateau de-la-Roche-Jagu

Approx 10km inland from Tréguier, on a heavily wooded slope above the Trieux river, stands the fifteenth century Château de-la-Roche-Jagu. A combination of fortress and home, it plays host to lavish annual exhibitions. The rooms within are bare, but if you climb to the top, you can admire the beautiful woodwork of the restored eaves, and walk the 2 long indoor galleries, offering tremendous views over the river.

Open daily: Easter–June and Sept & Oct 10.30am–12.30pm & 2–6pm; July & Aug 10am–7pm. Park access free, Château visit payable.

Visit Fort La Latte

Fort la Latte is a fourteenth century castle in a cliff-top location and is used regularly as a film set. Its tower, containing a cannonball factory, is accessible only over 2 drawbridges and offers good views of the Emerald Coast. Guided tours: April–Sept daily 10am–12.30pm & 2.30–6.30pm; Oct–March Sat, Sun & hols only 2.30–5.30pm.

Fréhel Tourism Office tel: (00 33) 2 96 41 53 81

Visit the Gallic Village in Pleumeur-Bodou, near Cosmopolis

This village is a unique reconstruction of a Gallic setting and way of life enabling you to discover our ancestors’ life, costumes and the craft industry of this period. There are numerous activities inside the village where everything is paid for with sesterces.

Open from Easter to the end of September – July and August open from 10 am to 7 pm.

Contact - Village Gaulois - tel: (00 33) 2.96.91.83.95

Shakespeare Festival, Perros-Guirec

January and February 2009

Scallop Festival, Erquy

April 2009

Saint Loup Festival, Guingamp

8-16 August 2009

This festival celebrates Breton dance and combines modern and traditional Celtic culture with 2,500 players, dancers and artists from the Celtic world. There are concerts every evening in the public gardens, dancing competitions, folklore shows and street entertainment. For more information, Tourism Office tel: (00 33) 2 96 43 73 89

Festival des Hortensias, Perros-Guirec

10 August 2009

For 2 days in August, this festival of Celtic music brings together 500 groups from Ireland, Scotland, Wales, Brittany, Galicia and Asturias. Breton bands and Celtic musicians also perform, while each year a band from outside the Celtic world is invited. There are stalls selling mussels, brochettes, beer and plenty of cider. Visit the Perros-Guirec Tourist Office website or tel: (00 33) 2 96 49 02 49

Grand Pardon Notre Dame de la Clarte, Perros-Guirec

August 2009

One of the largest pardons in the region

La Route du Cidre, Dinan

First weekend of September 2009

A flotilla of traditional boats goes up the River Rance to the port at Dinan with parades, street festivities, food and song

Fete des Ramparts, Dinan

Due to be held next in 2010

One of Europe’s most important medieval festivals, this event is celebrated with medieval-style jousting, banquets, fairs and processions, culminating in an immense fireworks display. There is a market every Thursday in the places du Champ and du Guesclin, the original medieval fairground. For more information contact the Tourism Office, tel: (00 33) 2 96 87 69 76

Please check precise details and dates with event organisers before making your holiday and travel arrangements.